Facing Your Fears – My First Time Surfing

Song: My Tears Are Becoming A Sea – M83

Oh my sweet sweet Jesus. If I said this wasn’t one of the best experiences of my life, I would be a filthy liar.

My boss, being the coolest guy in the world that he is (other than Greg Coady), allowed me, RJ, and Alexis (fellow new teachers) to occupy his villa in Jimbaran for the last 2 nights. This place was a sweet sweet little paradise hidden behind seemingly old barn doors. I was able to sleep in a bed under a cover for the first time since arriving in Bali. I woke feeling like a brand new woman. The best part though, no Wifi.

We got up super early on Monday morning and Luke (boss) swooped us up to head to the beach about 4 km away. When we got to the beach, Luke tells me that we are going to be set up on Kiddies’ Corner. He used to be a professional surfer in Australia, so will take the man’s word for it. Perfect. Just the shot of confidence I needed. As I got closer, I started to ease up a tad. It may have a demeaning children’s name but it is chock-full of adults whose center of gravity is about as unknown as the location of OJ’s other glove.

Once there, we slipped on our surf suits and got in a little beach practice on these massive rhino hunters. They threw me right in and I swear to Poseidon himself that I got up on my first 5 or 6 tries and rode those 1-meter mammoths as far as a man could have ridden them. Eventually, they let me join the lineup and in an hour and a half, I went from having never surfed to reading the ocean and catching my own waves.

Monday, April 22nd, 2019 marks the first time in my life that I have tried surfing. I have wanted to try my entire life but the surf’s not always up in Kansas. In fact, some would say it has never been up in Kansas. My heart was absolutely pounding. Why? I have a deep-seated fear of being in the ocean when I can’t see what is under me. I think it’s a very normal and reasonable fear that many people have, especially ones who grew up in seas of wheat and corn.

The environment that you grow up in has a huge impact on who you become as an adult, but you don’t have to let that determine what you can and cannot do. I have had this fear of the ocean my entire life because I didn’t grow up anywhere near one, yet when I rode that first wave, I have never felt freer in my entire life. I plan on buying an old board this week and going as much as possible to make up for lost time. This thing that I have been afraid of for so long is about to bring me so much joy and excitement for the rest of my life. I feel like I have unlocked yet another room full of wonders in the house that is life. My fear of deep water is by no means gone, but I’ve learned that you can take some of the good without the bad.

My quest to the other side of the world was very much about facing my fears and that’s exactly what I plan on doing. If you never face your fears, you may go your entire life being afraid of something that you might be meant for, like surfing…or jelly on your burger. Don’t knock it till you try it. My point is, it is never too late to find yourself. This blog is sponsored by Airplane Mode and No Stress Midwest.

Nico

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